Rover Holic

The following is intended as an aid for the diagnosis and solution of vibration problems on 1986 model year Range Rovers.

If you’ve spent much time looking at hardware you’ll note that you can find ungraded hardware, grade 5 hardware and grade 8 hardware.  Each of these is denoted on the top of the bolt, nut, or fastener.  The higher the number, the harder the fastener and the more torque and  load it can withstand without breaking.  The commonly referred to Grade 5 and Grade 8 specifications are for UNF based fasteners only (fractional sizes).

This is the most common of the fasteners on our truck.  Generally its a threaded bolt with 6 sides on the cap, and a corrosponding nut on the other end.  Sometimes it is backed up with washers to broaden the holding torque over a wider area.  For some inexplicable reason, Land Rover has seen fit to use somewhat substandard hardware in non-load bearing applications.  Land Rover also seems to not recognize the need to use any anti-sieze paste to facilitate removal of fasteners at a later time.  The combination of these two factors can be the source of unending frustra

So where do you get these tools?  The good tools are fairly easy to find.  You need only stop by your local Sears or Lowes, or get on their web pages to order your tools.  I suggest you visit the stores and hold the tools in your hand though to see if your are really going to be happy with them.  If you work on your truck much, you'll want to be sure you're comfortable using the tools.

So who makes premium tools?  Well the name that springs immediately to mind is Snap-On.  They are one of the largest tool manufacturers in the world.  they make tools in a variety of areas that are geared toward professional users.  Quietly, they own other companies that make professional grade, an DIY type tools.  Other large premium US tool manufacturers include Matco (Danaher tools) and Proto (which is a division of Stanley).  Outside the US, there a

Most people who repair their own vehicles are aware that there are many brands of tools on the market.  Especially when we are talking about the basic wrenches, sockets, ratchets, and screwdrivers.  Ask 20 people and you will get 20 opinions.  There are, of course, some commonly held beliefs and some basic truths.  No matter who makes the tool, a proper fit in your hand and on the fastener, will make for a better experience and better result.  More expensive doesn't always mean better tools, and crappy tools will always produce crappy results.

If you are not a "techie" and want a very simple method of check if your alternator and battery are working properly  then why not try a  dedicated Battery and Alternator Tester as sold by Maplin. The Maplin part number is FU00A  price £9.99 (correct March 99).

Buy 2 pairs of safety glasses.  Keep one pair in the truck.  Keep the other set on the bench.  Put them on when you are working on the truck, take them off when you are done.  There are far too many things on the truck that can cause you great harm to not use this piece of safety equipment.  Another consideration is gloves.  If you find yourself doing much wrenching, buy yourself a set of gloves.  I would never have believed how much of a difference they made until I tried my first pair.  No more bloody knuckles, no more pinched fingers, no more burns

The torque wrench is a good thing to have around the shop.  Many times, fasteners in sensitive areas will need to be tightened to a specific figure.  The only way to do it, is to use a torque wrench.  I'd suggest starting with a 3/8" model, and adding the 1/2" and 1/4" as necessary.  Good torque wrenches are expensive.  They are also somewhat delicate, and they need calibration periodically.  If you are unwilling to deal with this, take your truck to a qualified mechanic when precise torquing adjustments are a required part of a repair.

The hammer is a mainstay of Rover ownership.  But there are a few kinds.  There is the common claw hammer, the mini-sledge, the dead-blow, and the rubber mallet.  Each of these have their place around the truck, but the sheer power of the mini-sledge, and the overall usefulness of the rubber mallet make them indispensable around the truck.  Add the other when you can or as needed.  On the other end of the hammer if not a part on the truck, is something to be struck.  More often than not its a punch or a chisel.  I'll keep this simple.  Cheap stuff bre