Replacing the fuel filter on the Range Rover, Disco or D90 is a simple affair, requiring only a few tools and a little patience. It will smooth delivery of fuel to the engine, and keep contaminants from getting to the injectors. If you regularly buy fuel from suspect operators, I’d suggest changing frequently, and since they are cheap, you might do well to keep a spare.
Tools:
- Absorbent rags or towels to catch fuel
- Flat blade screwdriver
- New filter
- 5/8” open end wrench (stubby if possible)
- 11/16” open end wrench (might not need it)
- 13mm open end wrench
- Common sense. No open flames, or hot lights!
The Procedure
You begin by de-pressurizing the fuel system. The shop manual calls for you to remove the cold start plug, but I feel that is over the top. However, you DO need to remove the fuel relay. This is located under the passenger seat. Move the seat as far forward as possible and from behind the seat, pull back the floor carpeting. You will see an array of relays under the seat. The fuel relay is the one furthest left, nearest the cubby. Mine was stubborn to come off, so I used the flat screwdriver to remove it. BE CERTAIN to disconnect the negative lead on the battery before you remove the relay. Once its out, reconnect the negative terminal and crank over the vehicle. This will remove pressure from the fuel system. Be sure to run/crank the vehicle for a few seconds to make sure all the fuel is out. Disconnect the battery again.
Once you have the system de-pressurized, you can jack the truck and remove the rear right wheel using the standard procedure and safety precautions. This will give access to the fuel filter which is on the chassis rail as it passes below the rear passenger door just forward of the wheel well. The filter is has two small hoses connected to it These will either be held on my standard hose clamps, or will be threaded onto the filter itself. If held on my normal clamps the procedure is trivial. If its threaded, you will have to use your 5.8” wrench to disconnect the lines. Ordinarily this is not a problem, but if your truck has seen a lot of road salt and grime, it may be quite stubborn. You can use the 11/16” wrench in the opposite direction for added leverage.
One you have the hoses off (and an armful of fuel that you will be mopping up with your rags or shop towels) you will need to loosen the nut holding the bracket. This is 13mm and has a backing nut of the same size. It comes off in the usual manner. At this point, fitting the new filter is simple the reverse. Pay attention to the flow arrow. It should face toward the front of the truck. Fitting the hose toward the front of the truck should be done first, as it is the most difficult to reach. Then fit the other hose, and finally tighten down the bracket fully. When you have checked your connections, re-fit the fuel relay, reconnect the battery terminal.
At this point, attempt to crank the truck. It should start after a couple seconds of cranking. Let it idle for a few seconds and then go back and make certain you have NO leaks. Be aware that a leak from the fuel filter can be a fire hazard so be VERY sure its all secure. If you have no leaks then you’re done!