Servicing your own brakes is not a difficult affair, but it does require an attention to detail, a willingness to get your hands soiled, a willingness to spend a few bucks for some necessary tools, and couple of hours to burn. The workshop manual describes the procedure in great detail (as does the Haynes Manual) and that is what we will describe here. It is important to note that at times the procedure will call for an assistant. You can get away without one, but for completeness, you should really have someone on hand near the end of the procedure.
Servicing your own brakes is not a difficult affair, but it does require an attention to detail, a willingness to get your hands soiled, a willingness to spend a few bucks for some necessary tools, and couple of hours to burn. The workshop manual describes the procedure in great detail (as does the Haynes Manual) and that is what we will describe here. It is important to note that at times the procedure will call for an assistant. You can get away without one, but for completeness, you should really have someone on hand near the end of the procedure.
Warnings
- Make sure all bleed nipples are clean before starting procedure to prevent bringing contaminants into the system. Use clean brake fluid ONLY to clean the nipples, other cleaners may contaminate the system.
- Do not allow reservoir fluid container to fall below ‘MIN’ level during bleeding. Check regularly and make sure level is at or near the ‘MAX’ level.
- Do not use old brake fluid. Ensure only new fluid is used, taken from a clean, sealed container. Carefully dispose of unwanted fluid in a sealed container marked USED BRAKE FLUID.
- Brake fluid is toxic and will strip paint quickly on your car. Take precautions not to get it on your skin or paint. If you do, clean your skin or your paint with soap and water immediately to prevent problems.
Materials:
- 1 Jack (trolley jack or LR supplied bottle jack).
- 4 Axle stands
- 3 Quarts of Brake Fluid (varieties are discussed here)
- 1 Pressure bleeder such as the wonderful Motive Products unit
- 1 Lug nut wrench (wheel brace)
- A set of Combination Wrenches (I like Kobalt Tools)
- 1 Gallon container to catch used brake fluid
- 1 Wire brush to clean bleed nipples.
- 1 HUGE helping of patience!
Procedure:
- Jack car at and place jack stands under all four corners. removing tires.
- Turn off ignition and depressurize braking system. This is done by pressing down on the brake pedal hard 30 times, waiting 60 seconds, and then doing it 4 more times. Ensure that the ignition stays off until later instructed.
- Attach Pressure bleeder according to manufacturers instructions.
- Depress brake pedal slowly and progressively 5 times, using full pedal stroke. Release pedal for 5 to 10 seconds, air bubbles will raise into reservoir.
- Repeat instruction 4 until resistance is felt.
- Bleed four front caliper lower (hydrostatic) bleed screws by attaching the proper fitting wrench, then your hose over the nipple with the other hose end placed into the receptacle for the used fluid. Loosen the bleed nipple until fluid flows out. When you see the fluid run clear (new fluid is very light in color), tighten the bleed screw. Bleed the calipers in the following order: Outer bleed screw drivers side, outer bleed screw opposite side, inner bleed screw, inner bleed screw drivers side.
- Bleed hydraulic pump - Open bleed screw on pump and allow fluid to flow until clear of air bubbles. Be careful when bleeding here as it is easy to get fluid on the paint. If you are concerned, bleed into a clean, absorbent cloth to prevent spillage.
- Bleed accumulator. This will require some patience. Getting the small wrench onto the bleed screw will be difficult at best. Open bleed screw. If vehicle has electronic traction control, the screw will be on top of the ETC valve block. Switch ignition on and run pump for 3-4 seconds. Switch off and repeat procedure until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Having an assistant here is useful. If you are working alone, do this 5-10 times or use a bleed tube long enough for you to see from the drivers seat. Switch off ignition and close bleed screw.
- Bleed two hydraulic booster bleed screws. Open one bleed screw, depress pedal, switch on ignition, run pump until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Close bleed screw, switch off ignition, release pedal. Repeat for other bleed screws.
- Bleed power circuit at four calipers in turn. Depress pedal, open bleed screw (upper bleed screw on front calipers). Switch on ignition, run pump for 3-4 seconds, switch off and repeat procedure until fluid is clear of air bubbles. Switch off ignition, close caliper bleed screw, release pedal.
- Bleed master cylinder - switch ignition on. System pressure will increase until pump cuts out. If pump does not cut out after running for 45 seconds, check system for leaks.
- Bleed hydrostatic circuit calipers - open one front lower caliper bleed screws. Actuate brake pedal several times, using only lower two thirds of pedal travel, until the fluid is clear of air bubbles. Stop actuation if fluid warning light comes on and allow pressure to build up.
- Close caliper bleed screw before releasing pedal, repeat for the three remaining hydrostatic bleed screws.
- Check/Top up reservoir fluid level.
- Dry all connections, make sure all bleed screws are properly tightened, fully pressurize system, check for leaks. If two full brake applications switch on the pump from fully charged, re-bleed system.